Rating: ( 1 is low, 5 is high )   Atmosphere, Casual, comfortable. Cusine: Italian Handicapped Access:   Yes Would Gourmet Go Back?    Yes   Food    4                  Price       4   A nice little Italian restaurant has sprung up in a rather unlikely location, a little strip mall called Birchwood plaza on Route 27 in Candia ( exit 3 off Route 101 east, then 2 miles).  A visit to Pasquale's Ristorante on a recent Sunday night got us thinking that a return trip is definitely in our future. The small dining room -it hold maybe a dozen tables- was pretty close to full upon our arrivals, but the service hummed along, two waitresses taking care of the customers in fine style. Diners at Pasquale's which as only been open since May, will find the usual Italian dishes on the menu, along with several that reach beyond the mundane. We began our meal by splitting an Antipasto Casalingo, described as house marinated vegetables, imported meats, and cheeses ($8.95). The platter was a generous serving of salami and prosciutto, cheeses, artichokes hearts, roasted red peppers, and portobello mushrooms, all on a bed of lettuce. The assortment was colorful and tasty and there was plenty to serve our party of three. And offering apologies to the third party who voted for the homemade meatballs (polpette) in plum tomato sauce, we'll look forward to trying that on the next trip. We anjoyed the warm bread, served with a dish of olive oil and olives, and manage to empty a couple of baskets. One disappointment was the luck of soups on the menu. On a chilly, fall-like evening, we could have used a nice cup of pasta e fagioli or minestrone, but alas, soups are only offered on the lunch menu. A check of the lunch menu found many of the same dishes, at the lower price and indeed, a choice of tortellini soup or soup of the day. Also intriguing on the lunch menu was the "pasta express"- Linguine, gnocchi, farfalle, or tortellini served with the diner's choice of tomato sauce, meat sauce, alfredo sauce or oil and garlic at $ 4.95, it may just be an enticement to make our return trip when we can get away for lunch. A great fan of shrimp scampi Gourmet was happy to stray a bit from the usual, sampling Gamberi al Martini Rosso- Jumbo shrimp in a champagne wine sauce ($ 15.95). Despite gourmet's feeling that the shrimp were just a tad undercooked (onother minute in the saute pan would had been perfect, I believe), the meal was indeed delicious. "Daily accompaniment" with this day's meals were roasted and marinated red peppers and portobello mushrooms, and penne pasta in a light tomato sauce. Gourmet asked to substitute a pasta with just butter sauce, and was pleased with the serving of linguine with butter and garlic that arrived. The dinner plate should have been photographed, if only to captured the wonderful colors! Each of the dinners also included a salad, fresh and crisp, loaded with croutons, and served with choice of dressing: balsamic vinaigrette, honey mustard, ranch, Caesar, blue cheeseand low-fat raspberry vinaigrette. Each  made in house daily. I thought I could tempt my dining companion to try the Farfalle al Salmone Affumicato- Farfalle shaped pasta, smoked salmon saute with minced onions baby peas and Vodka in a cream sauce ( $11.95), but being one who prefers to sample the chef's special, the selection was swordfish scampi ($ 16.95). The portion was large, and the preparation perfect, and it was a treat alongside the day's vegetables and pasta. Our other companion perused the specialty pastas, and passed over the gnocchi, Lobster Ravioli, tortellini (sauteed with onions, prosciutto and porcini mushrooms in a pink sauce) and linguine with red or white clams sauce, for the Lasagna Napoletana ($ 9.95). The portion was huge, and took some time to make it through the hearty dish, but this dinner was satisfield, and somehow had room for dessert. Pasquale's covers the basics on its menu, with selections of veal, chicken, and fish. Veal scallopine is served in a marsala sauce or lemon butter, parmigiana or Napoletana (tri- colored peppers, porcini mushrooms and white wine sauce. There are three chicken selections, including Pollo Pasquale, boneless breast stuffed with spinach, prosciutto, and fontina cheese in a garlic cream sauce, steak and fish, including a daily special and a shrimp fra-diavolo. Gourmet and friends look forward to heading to Pasquale's again, were the chef looks out from the open kitchen, and a relaxing, hospitable atmosphere pervades. More specialties await our tasting.

BEDFORD JOURNAL Let's do lunch by Marilyn Otterson   GEM IN A STRIP MALL   PASQUALE RISTORANTE   145 Raymond Road, Birchwood plaza, (101 east exit 3, right on route 27, 2 miles on the right ) Candia. 483-5005. Closed Mondays. Luncheons from around $ 5.00. Moderate-plus price. Italian specialties including appetizers, sandwiches, pasta dishes, veal and chicken, fish and salads. Wheelchair accessible. Casual.   RATING:      FOOD***1/2   SERVICE***   ATMOSPHERE**1/2                        VALUE  **   OVERALL  *** Sometimes it's easy to miss some of the restaurant gems that lie hidden in strip malls. We might think an unprepossessing eatery to be unworthy of our notice, or maybe we just wouldn't see a restaurant hidden among the front of others businesses. I never would have found Pasquales Ristorante had not three separate people recomanded the place to me in one week. I had to find and try it. I found Pasquale, neathly tucket into a small strip mall that's perpendicular to the road.  It would be easy to drive right by, but this is restaurant  worth of your search if you love real Italian food. Pasquale's is small, casual, and friendly with almost a bistro atmosphere. You'll be able to see over a high counter into the kitchen if you're seated facing in that direction and you'll get a greeting or a thanks for coming from the chef if he catches your eyes. The room is attractive with half paneling and dark paper above it; prints, draped; silk grape leaves; table with glass over burgandy cloth; and confortable, padded mates chairs. back ground music is muted and plasantly Italian. Here's a restaurant that's cut above many red sauce eateries. Pasquale is a place that boasts real authenticity in its preparations, fresh homemade sauce, fresh pastas, imported meats and cheeses in the antipasti, homemade mozzarella, and fresh vegetables. Attention to detail and the use of quality ingredient, combined with great cooking, make the restaurant a standout among others. Most lunchs are in the $6-$7 catecory, but there are less expensive alternatives in panini (sandwiches) starting at about $6 and including panino casalingo, a creation of grilled chicken breast, prosciutto ham, tomatoes, mayonnaise, and honey mustard dressing. Pasta express, $4.95, feature a choice of linguine gnocchi, farfalle, or tortellini with your choice of tomato sauce, oil and garlic, alfredo or meat sauce. Entrees such as the veal Marsala and chicken cacciatore are $8.95. while we tried to decide which treat to choose, our server brought us crusty bread and a dish with olive oil and olives, for dipping. ( Another time we might try an imported Italian beer wwith this, either Moretti or Peroni, $3.25). My companion and I each ordered from the Specialty pasta category and both meals were $6.95. My choice was Lasagna Casareccia, described on the menu as fresh pasta layered with homemade Bolognese sauce (meat sauce) ricotta, and mozzarella cheese. The sauce was probably the best I ever tasted , I know this sounds like an exageration, but it's true. Fresh tomatoes, excellent olive oil, a small ammount of ground meat of groung meat for flavor , perhaps the lightest touch of garlic or onions, very subtle and the flavor was superb. Pooled in a large, white bowl, the sauce surrounded tender pasta with generous ricotta filling and plenty of melting mozzarella. Wonderful. I'm still dreaming about it. My companion chose gnocchi al pomodoro e basilico ( potato dumpling with plum tomato sauce and fresh basil). The chocchi were tender and the sauce was excellent, but not as extraordinary as the Bolognese sauce on the Lasagna. This was an excellent lunch. We skipped dessert, but if you have an extra $4 or $5 you may wish to try one of the Italian Specialties Including Tiramisu', cannoli, gelato fritto. We were full. Anyway with check came peppermints, imported from Italy a classy touch. I can happily racommend Pasquale to readers.   (***)   * Fair ** Good *** Excellent **** Extraordinary IN THE CITY BY JOHN CLAYTON   At long culinary king Pasquale Celone has is own place. it is called Pasquale's Ristorante in the Birchwood plaza in candia his doors open tomorrow. With a name like Pasquale Celone- that's pronounced Che-low-nee- you know your getting authentic Italian cuisine. New Hampshire magazine   BEST NEW RESTAURANT   " New " isn't always "improved" in the restaurant business, but our survey says PASQUALE'S in Candia is well worth a visit.